Collected Musings of a Hill Wanderer

Last Saturday was a day when I was torn between possibilities. One dilemma that I didn’t face was whether to go somewhere for a wander or not; that one was settled. It’s where I was going that was the outstanding question and the choice was been Wales and Cumbria. Even though Dolwyddelan tempted and remained a backup in the event of anything going awry on the travel front, it was Cumbria’s Lake District that was to get my vote because a walk in Borrowdale was in my head for a while and I hadn’t been to the area since last July anyway. If my time was more restricted, then my decision could have been very different.

My journey to Borrowdale was set to involve a lot of changes: Stockport, Crewe, Penrith, Keswick. With this number ahead of me, it would have been better if passengers could control themselves and police didn’t need to meet what was to be my train from Crewe. Luckily, I had a twenty minute wait in Penrith in prospect but losing ten minutes due to a delayed train soon chopped that down to size and delays can beget further delays. As it turned out, I had no cause for concern and I easily made my bus to Keswick. However, I was reminded of my connection to Borrowdale when I saw slow traffic on the A66 and more people getting on at Threlkeld than I had ever seen before. It so happened that the Borrowdale bus was late, sufficiently so that one would start to wonder if it had departed without my seeing it. Keswick bus interchange was a busy spot that day.

Following all those opportunities for groundless anxiousness, I found myself in Rosthwaite relaxed and enjoying wonderful sunshine. Eating an ice cream, I found my way onto the Cumbria Way that I was set to follow all of the way into Langdale. Being a sunny day in the Lake District, solitude was not to be expected but there were to be moments when I had a lot of space to myself. Still, it never seems to surprise me how easy it can be to lose them. Even so, Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite were hardly overrun anyway but most of those perambulating about them seem to have got nary a thought of going further afield. With the sights that were on offer, I suppose that it is hard to blame them.

Having skirted past Stonethwaite, another choice presented itself: to stick with the original plan to walk to Dungeon Ghyll or tramp over Greenup Edge to Grasmere. If things got a bit too crowded on the former, the latter was to be my plan. They didn’t and I managed to drag myself onward to leave the Grasmere option for another day. A sign for Watendlath had tempted me earlier but I managed to put that into my stash of ideas for the future too. Thus, I struck on for and through Langstrath, a wide open and empty space in keeping with its Scottish-esque name. Also in keeping with any pseudo-Scottishness, it was here were I met next to nobody but a goodly number of Herdwick sheep.

The seemingly obvious southbound exit from Langstrath is follow the valley’s beck to Angle Tarn and drop down from there by the side of Rosset Gill. This is not the way taken by the Cumbria Way though; instead, a more direct route over Stake Pass is its choice. On paper, this is a seemingly unimpressive 200-300 metres of ascent. In reality, as with a lot of slopes in these parts, that apparent "walk in the park" can be a lot more testing than those numbers might suggest. For one thing, you can guarantee steepness and erosion means that route finding involves a spot of blundering about on a maze of paths, many deviating from the "correct" one. Couple all of that with the hot and often breezeless day and you have to take it nice and slow on the ascent. A descent still offers plenty of footholds but you still need your wits about you so as not to take a more horizontal position than you would like.

On reaching the top, I soon found a spot to rest a while after my exertions. By this stage of the day, the sky was full of cloud and the sun had become well hidden. It remained pleasantly warm, though, and I enjoyed the flatter gradients before the descent that faced me. The state of the path down couldn’t be more different than the one that I used on my way up. The National Trust have been keeping an eye on things and have been doing some further work over the past few months to make things better. I might have said that it didn’t need the attention and that the path from Langstrath to Stake Pass needed it more. There is a counterpoint to this of course: the way up from the floor of Langdale is a busier trail because the proximity of such delights as the Langdale Pikes, Pike’o'Stickle and many more. The result of the attentions was that I made steady progress down a well built and pitched path that would obstructed in places with big bags of big stones.

That descent and obstacle dodging completed, the track really levelled out and, apart maybe from the deepness of the loose stone surface in parts, it was easy and undemanding walking all the way to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. If I had arrived twenty minutes earlier, I might have caught the 16:30 bus to Ambleside but the wait of over an hour, in blissful surroundings with sun attempting to get through the cloud, for the next one was no hardship. I did consider walking further along Great Langdale but reconsidered it on the grounds of time and wiled away the time on a shorter stroll instead.

When the bus did turn up, we found out that it terminated in Ambleside rather than Kendal as per the timetable. There were those who were far from happy with this state of affairs, more than likely those with ongoing connections. I suppose that anyone going south of Oxenholme would have had the limitations in late Saturday evening services on their minds. As with my travel that morning, any connection anxiety was needless since we easily made a connecting bus from Ambleside. That got me to Windermere in plenty of time for the start of railway journey home with changes in Oxenholme and Manchester. The sun was out as I was leaving; was it an effort to coax me into a return trip for those walking ideas that I had to set aside earlier that day?

Usually I write my trip reports in the order in which the trips took place but I am considering making an exception to that convention and writing up last weekend’s excursion to Cumbria before the previous weekend’s visit to Argyll. The day trek should be quicker to share and I can devote more time to telling of the various walks I did in Scotland, perhaps over a number of blog entries. All of that has had to wait because yesterday evening provided yet another distraction from sitting in front of a computer: a sunny end to a day with a wet start coaxed me out for a local trot that further broke in my Scarpas. The cornucopia of recent hikes are making the old Salomons look more and more worn so getting the new boots ready for longer outings is becoming more necessary by the day. In fact, the thought has crossed my mind that it might be sensible to get another pair of walking footwear, perhaps a pair of lightweight boots, for summer walking. However, that might be a luxury too far in the current economic climate…

The options that I have in mind for this post are of the public transport variety. I have noticed that there are years when I visit an area a lot and that is down to number of factors: it might be somewhere new for me to explore and the weather conditions are more favourable there than other places. A window of opportunity for getting there using public transport can be yet another contributor.

After all, public transport options do change over time and not always for the better. One factor that contributes to this is public demand. There have been times when the frequency for bus services has been improved only for it to be cut back again, possibly because of patronage. An example of this that comes to mind is the X94 Trawscambria service that became hourly in 2006 but is as good as two-hourly these days, even if some services extend to and from Chester with Wrexham being the main northern terminus. the trouble with this is that there is the nagging question as to whether enough time was allowed for patronage to build up; that is something that might take a few years rather than twelve months in some cases.

The next thing that crops up in my mind is the loss of a public transport connection and rail-bus connections particularly come to mind. Sunday rail-bus connections in Bangor (in Wales, not NI) or the lack of them have disappointed me in the past. Having the bus leave before the train arrives does sound a bit ridiculous but short connection times are just as useless, especially when you recall how late trains can be.

Then, there regulatory hurdles to be overcome. One that recently came into play was the 50 km limit for local bus services brought into force following an EU directive. That has done for a Sunday Dalesbus service operated by Arriva and introduced changes where there previously were through services. I could see the 555 in the Lake District being hit by this as well. However, I suppose that England and Wales had a better express bus system like Ireland and Scotland, then all of this wouldn’t cause any problems.

The route length limitation can be seen as a piece of regulatory madness but there are home grown ones in the U.K. too. One that annoys me a little is the intervention of the Competition Commission in the Scottish bus market following the coming together of Scottish Citylink and Stagecoach’s Megabus. Thankfully, a sensible compromise was reached with services on some routes going to Parks of Hamilton and they are agreeing to work with Citylink as regards timetables and ticketing. Otherwise, it could have further fragmented an already fragmented system and is an exhibition of the sort of mindset that could stop us ever getting the joined up transport system that we so desire.

What has brought all of this to mind is the retiming of the Macclesfield-Crewe bus service on Sundays to leave twenty five minutes earlier. I seem to remember that an early departure from Macclesfield on Sundays was a possibility some years back but it has since disappeared for some reason. So, the earlier start for the bus service in question is very much a good thing, even if it means that last one home is earlier too. That earlier first departure restores the option of getting to Shropshire and Mid Wales after its being removed by train retiming. I hope to make good use of this opportunity to explore Shropshire and mid Wales a bit more. Who knows but I may even walk new sections of the Offa’s Dyke Path. Not all of the world’s going downhill…

It’s very human to look back at the turn of a year/decade/century/millennium/etc. and, this time last year, I took the opportunity to look over my travels in 2006. In the same vein, I now cast my mind back over the same sort thing but for 2007 instead. If 2006 was to be the year of seeking out pastures new, then 2007 has been a year largely taken up with following long distance trails into country familiar to me from a different angle and, more often than not, into country that I am visiting for the first time.

2007 was to start quietly with only one walking excursion in January. The weather didn’t tempt but for day when I went to Chirk for a trek to Llangollen that saw me hop over and back along the Wales-England border before picking up a small piece of the Offa’s Dyke Path and leaving that to get to Llangollen before nightfall. It was a case of something old, something new and put an idea into my head that laid the foundations for a walk later in the year. The long distance trail ethic that was to pervade my walking in 2007 had made an early appearance.

February built up the long distance trail trend with my exploring two trails. First up was the Pennine Way with a hike from Hebden Bridge to Littleborough giving me a feel for the moors above Calderdale. Walks along the Pennine Way, still unfinished business in 2008, were to pervade my outings until the end of April. My second excursion took me up to Scotland for the southernmost part of the West Highland Way: Milngavie to Drymen. This was also a case of going into countryside new to me and, like the Calderdale trot, it was to give rise to more excursions later on.

The Pennine Way hiking continued in March and it started again early in the month with a trek that saw me return to Calderdale for a walk from Todmorden to Burnley by way of both the Pennine Way and the Pennine Bridleway. This was followed up at the end of the month when I yomped from Haworth to Burnley.

My Pennine wanderings were set to continue in April and the first one plugged a gap in the itinerary from Edale to Haworth: Marsden to Littleborough via Wessenden Reservoir. It was to prove a claggy day until lunchtime, something that very much focussed the mind when it came to navigation. My next day along the Pennine Way was in clearer if blustery conditions. It also was to take me through some of the best countryside on the Pennine Way as I voyaged from Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes. Rain was to beset me on my next excursion as I left Malham Tarn to head for Gargrave but I left the rain after me in Malham and things cheered up immeasurably as I was nearing my destination for the day. Those two excursions left a gap that was filled on a tramp from Malham Tarn over Fountains Fell and Pen-y-Ghent to Horton on a day that when it felt like summer.

I started May with another trip blessed by fair weather. After years of admiring it, I finally made my way up to the top of Skiddaw. Some may view the manicured lines of the "tourist track" that I followed as dull, I’d rather not scare myself with descents that are too steep so I well appreciated its gentler approach and I still found time to take in Little Man and Lattrigg as well. Next up in May was a trip that my memory reckons happened in July; it’s just as well that I have this blog! I made my return to Chirk for another stroll along the Offa’s Dyke Path, this time to Oswestry. Cloud predominated on the day so photographic opportunities were rare. Even so, it didn’t stop my having a good walk in countryside that was new to me. If I had more time, I would have dawdled more so it might time for a return. In walking terms, the month of May went out with a bang: a two day trek on the West Highland Way along the banks of Loch Lomond with an overnight stay in Rowardennan. I very much took a chance with the weather on this one but Scotland didn’t let me down on what is for me one of the finest stretches of the WHW.

June was to be a quieter month with regard to walking and the long evenings were allowing me to get out in the part of Cheshire’s hill country that is near me. These outings were to become a feature of the "summer". June soon became a sodden affair but I still returned to Rhinog country for a creditable stroll through a landscape that was anything but dry. The weather that we were getting was a foretaste of what was to come, making 2007 a year of two halves: one fabulous and one that returned us to reality. Alan Sloman was lucky to complete his LEJOG when he did.

July was for many a washout but I managed to get two decent Lakeland excursions out of the month. Both involved my heading to Windermere with the first being an over and back hike to Kentmere and the second being a trek to Staveley via Kentmere. On both outings, I enjoyed the fine scenery in excellent weather, something that must sound ironic to those sodden by the floods of 2007. Yes, water had accumulated underfoot but the worst difficulties, if any, were avoidable.

August saw me finishing two long distance trails and starting on another one. The first to be completed was the West Highland Way and that happened on my now habitual summertime stay in Scotland. That saw me complete of perhaps the noisiest stretch of the trail: that between Bridge of Orchy and Inverarnan and with some sun to enliven the views too. The other walking that I did during that trip was a soggy reconnaissance trip among the hills near Kinlochleven. The other trail completed was one passing not far from where I live: the Gritstone Trail. Hikes from Macclesfield to Congleton and from Eaton to Kidsgrove in pleasant conditions allowed me to bring my walking of the trail towards a good end. A final evening stroll was sufficient for me to walk the final short stretch around Bollington before I then walked home to my house. The bank holiday weekend at the end of the month allowed me the opportunity to start off the Rob Roy Way by walking from Drymen to Callander with an overnight stay in Aberfoyle. This got me into nice countryside that I hadn’t visited before and it seems more than worthy of a return.

After what must sound like a bountiful August, hillwalking activities were less prevalent for the rest of the year, even if I had planned not to have things slow down. September and November stand out as months when you could have said that I had gone into hibernation. October saw me head out for a local constitutional to take in the Autumn colour, follow streams in local hill country and visit the South Pennines for a hike lacking in any real progress on completing the missing link in my Pennine Way journey so far. In December, I decided to vanquish any sense of hibernation by another wander among the hills lining the Cheshire-Derbyshire border followed up by a fleeting unintended visit to the hill country of the Long Mynd near Church Stretton.

All in all, 2007 was another good walking year for me. Unless you lost out in the flooding (and I don’t envy anyone who did: hope it all works out alright for them), it would be a travesty to remember 2007 for its sodden summer when we had so much clement weather earlier in the year. As it happens, the continual greyness that pervaded nearly all of 2004 remains with me with 2007’s bright spots easily cause me to forget any grey bits. The proverbial question of what 2008 will bring does raise its head as it is wont to do; so also is the realisation that the future is not ours to see (we’re probably better off!). I never go in for big plans anyway but that doesn’t stop me having ideas in my mind for when the opportunities to explore them arise. We’ll see what happens…

Even after all of the weather-induced goings-on further south, I still braved the prospect of showers and headed to Cumbria for a day out among the fells. My getting a new Pentax DSLR was partly to blame for this; I needed to see how it got on in the "wild". My transport arrangements were the same as for my previous excursion up to these parts and the course of my walk followed a lot of that route as well.

There were variations from before of course. I skirted Orrest Head so that I wouldn’t get captivated atop it again; the day was more cloudy at this stage anyway. In fact, it was around here that I got the only rain on my hike and it was only a light shower. By the time that heavy showers were to arrive, i was safely ensconced in Oxenholme station awaiting a train back to Crewe. Before that, the day was to improve greatly and the cloud was becoming more broken as I headed for the Garburn Pass and the sun was well out on my arrival in Kentmere. Not surprising given the summer that we have have been having, some large puddles the width of the whole track had to be crossed as I plied my way up Dubbs Road. I kept thinking that a spot of maintenance would counter their appearance but it doesn’t look as if that’s getting done.

I took a break for food  in Kentmere and spotted where there was a bus stop served by the Kentmere Rambler, otherwise known as service 519. This is a regular summer shuttle that plies its way between Staveley and Kentmere on Sundays and bank holidays with support from Friends of the Lake District. It looks useful and I wonder why it doesn’t run on Saturdays as well; after all, this is an area well worth visiting.

After this, my course changed very much from before as I was heading for Staveley this time, rather than back to Windermere again. So, I ventured along the bridleway rounding the slopes of Green Quarter Fell, looking back a lot as I made my way. I turned for Staveley in the vicinity of Skeggles Water and it was here that I took my leave of a gentleman out walking with his dogs, whose path kept crossing with mine; we did end up passing some words of conversation at each occasion of our meeting. There were no navigational hazards on the way down to Staveley from here and the route highlighted a possible entry point for any future visits. There may well be a few…

A sunny Saturday escapade was out of the question because my driving lessons continue so I took my chances on Sunday. Despite the threat of thundery showers, a trek to the Lake District appealed and it didn’t disappoint either. In fact, weather in the area can do its own thing and I have been clag-bound on days when the forecast was for fabulous sunshine. This time, it was the other way around: the clouds were in plentiful supply at times but they never threatened with rain and the day turned out to be one that I will remember and treasure.

The travel arrangements involved bus journeys to and from Crewe with trains taking me from there to Windermere and back, with a change in Oxenholme. It was all fairly straightforward and I was in Windermere before 12:40. I have no idea how I managed to get this into my head but I have never thought of Windermere as a place from which to start hill walks; I had always voyaged further by bus. It took Jim Reid’s Tour of the Lake District (Cicerone) to put me straight. Sunday’s trek proved that there’s nothing at all shabby about the hill country north of Windermere.

My walk took me up and over Orrest Head and the views from this modest little hill were sublime; I can see why Wainwright rated it. Its location more than makes up for any lack of height and proves that height is no prerequisite for enchanting vistas. Views up and down Windermere and the hills surrounding it are in ample supply with northern vistas also being packed fully of craggy and not so craggy delights. With sunshine in abundance, getting myself off it to continue on my way was a lengthy process.

From there, I made my way to Moor Howe by a mixture of roads and public footpaths and made my way onto a track called the Dubbs Road. Deep pools almost occupying the whole width of the track in places were abundant as I walked onward to join another track, called Garburn Road. By then, I was on the slopes of Applethwaite Common above Troutbeck and road noise was percolating up from the valley below. Views of Ill Bell and other fells abounded to the north and I was soon to leave behind the bustle of road traffic to cross over Garburn Pass. A tempting track to Yoke and Ill Bell headed off to my left but I was content to leave such an excursion for another day.

I lost height as I dropped into Kentmere valley but by then the scene was being set for a wonderful evening. I didn’t go into Kentmere village itself but cut off towards Kentmere Hall and started gaining height again as I began my return to Windermere. The views around me were enchanting and stopping and staring slowed progress as did photographic exploits. Distractions and climbing soon became less of an issue and steady progress was made along mainly good tracks (some waterlogged patches were encountered but that was to be expected given the weather that we have been having) until I reached High Borrans farm. From there, it was road walking all the way to Near Orrest farm and my feet weren’t thanking me for it. A tramp along public footpaths offered some respite as I skirted Orrest Head took me back to Windermere where, having missed a train by ten minutes, I had a spot of time to stroll into Windermere to buy a few bits and bobs before I headed home satisfied after a good day out.